Friday, April 2, 2021

The magic of age: How Hunter semillon transforms with time in the bottle

 

Tyrrell's Short Flat vineyard, the source of much of their top semillon

If you are tasting a young Hunter Valley semillon for the first time it can make you wonder what all the fuss is about.

A young Hunter Semillon can be very pale, almost colourless and show only faint aromas of citrus and possibly straw. And thee seems to be a lot more acid on the finish than the fruit can sustain.

Unfortunately, you may have to wait five years or more for the variety’s full glory to show.

But when it does, it is something else again. That colourless wine has transformed into a green-gold explosion of honey, citrus and toasty characters that almost overwhelm the senses.


Whenever I am at a wine show exhibitors’ tasting, I head for the aged Semillon classes as there a just so many gems to taste. Even the wines awarded bronze medals can be something special while the gold medal winners are often sublime.

I have always had a couple favourite Hunter semillons, Tyrrell’s Vat 1 and Mount Pleasant Lovedale. I prefer Vat 1 but it really just a matter of style. Both, particularly with bottle age, are amazing, world-class wines that are under-appreciated and under-valued. While some top wines now can fetch $100 or up equivalent quality Australian chardonnays sell for much more, while comparable French white burgundies are literally hundreds of dollars a bottle more.


Intriguingly, many of the best are also quite low in alcohol, with many in the 10% to 12% range, proving you don't have to have lashings of alcohol to make wines that last.
Tyrrell’s and Mount Pleasant are not the only producers to look for, they’re just a couple of my favourites. Seek out wines from Tulloch, De Iulius, Brokenwood, Gundog Estate, Briar Ridge and McLeish Estate, among many, who have young and old examples on offer.

For more information go to

www.winecountry.com.au

www.tyrrells.com.au

www.tullochwines.com

www.brokenwood.com.au

www.gundogestate.com.au

www.briarridge.com.au

www.mcleishestate.com.au

www.mountpleasantwines.com.au

 

 

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