The good wood: Oak maturation adds extra style to a Tassie sparkler

Working in the Clover Hill vineyard in northern Tasmania

I’ve always enjoyed champagnes at the richer end of the scale, with Krug and Bollinger leading the way. It’s no secret that ageing of the base material in oak barrels has a lot to do with that added richness and complexity.

So it’s no surprise that Hanging Rock Macedon, made by John Ellis, has been one of my favourite Australian bubblies. John unashamedly modelled the wine on Krug and Bollinger with that added oak influence.

Well, now I have discovered another Aussie bubble that appeals to my tastes, Clover Hill’s new Cuvee Foudre NV ($50). Clover Hill has been among my favourite Australian sparkling makers for some years. producing delicious bubblies from their northern Tasmanian base.

For this new release they store the base wine (chardo9nnay 66%, pinot noir 32% and pinot meunier 2%) in large format (58hL) French oak foudre for 18 months and then a further 14 months on lees after final bottling.

The result is a rich, complex bubbly that is delicious with smoked salmon on blinis with cream cheese but would go very well with chicken or white fish dishes.

If you want a bubble to go with pan-fried salmon I would be looking more towards their Tasmanian Cuvee Rose NV ($36) or 2016 Cuvee Exceptionnelle Rose ($70).

And if you want some bubble to enjoy as an aperitif it’s hard to go past the Tasmanian Cuvee NV ($36), Vintage Brut 2016 ($50) or Cuvee Exceptionnelle Blanc de Blancs 2015 ($70). 

For lighter, fruit-based desserts check out the Vintage Riche 2016 ($50) with its higher residual sugar level. 

If you want something to go with the Christmas ham or turkey, look no further that Clover Hill’s parent Taltarni and their 2018 Sparkling Shiraz ($26). It’s a wonderful Aussie style that really hasn’t been mastered by any other country and the rich, sweet fruit with bubbles goes so well with either ham or turkey. It’s not too bad with Christmas pudding or fruit cake either.

Indeed, the Taltarni range always delights me, from the 2016 Brut through the 2014 Cuvee Rose, 2017 Blanc de Blancs and particularly the 2014 Tache Sparkling Rose (all $26). 

If you can’t find something in the Taltarni/Clover Hill sparkling range you really are picky.

For more information go to www.taltarni.com.au and www.cloverhillwines.com.au