Spread of shiraz: It's not just South Australia where this amazing variety has flourished

The famous historic tower at Tahbilk

While the Barossa and McLaren Vale may seem to dominate the Australian shiraz scene, other state provide plenty of good examples of the variety.

Go to Victoria and explore the big, rich wines of Rutherglen (Campbells, Baileys, Morris, Chambers, Pfeiffer and Brown Brothers among many), the wondrous range from Heathcote, Central Goulburn Valley (Tahbilk (where they make a marvellous drop from vines planted in 1867) and Mitchelton), the Pyrenees (Taltarni, Blue Pyrenees, Mount Avoca, Dalwhinnie, Sally’s Paddock and more) and Great Western (Seppelt, who also make a marvellous series of sparkling shirazes culminating in the legendary Show Sparkling Shiraz, and Bests), not to mention the Yarra Valley, Mornington Peninsula and Geelong regions.

The range in New South Wales is almost as varied. Do you try the distinctive wines of the Hunter Valley, cool-climate versions from around Orange, the rich and robust wines of Mudgee, good-value quaffers from the Riverina … ?

The Hunter is home to some of Australia’s oldest shiraz vines, and there are plenty dating back more than a century. Mount Pleasant, for example, has the aptly named Old Paddock (1921) and Old Hill (1880) blocks providing marvellous medium-bodied reds, not to mention the delicious Rosehill shirazes, first planted in 1946.

Neighbours Tyrrell’s have several vineyards planted more than a century ago, including 4 Acres (1879), 8 Acres (1892), Johnnos 1908, previously known as Long Flat) and the pride of the collection, the Old Parch (1867, perhaps the earliest planted shiraz in New South Wales).

While they may not be able to source shiraz from such ancient vineyards, Tulloch, Gundog, De Iulius, Pepper Tree, Briar Ridge and Tower Estate are among numerous Hunter wineries making very drinkable versions of shiraz.

Over in Western Australia, the Great Southern region than encompasses Mt Barker, Frankland River, Denmark and the Porongorup districts also produces some lovely examples (Plantagenet, West Cape Howe, Alkoomi, Frankland Estate, Ferngrove, 3 Drops, Singlefile and more), and while cabernet sauvignon might overshadow shiraz in Margaret River there are also some more than useful versions produced there.

And being the parochial Queenslander that I am, I have to mention some of the lovely wines coming from the Granite Belt, led by those of Ballandean Estate, with its shiraz plantings dating back more than 50 years. There are plenty of others there, too. It’s worth spending a weekend in the district, sampling the local wines and food.