Constant Delights: Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon

In more than 40 years of tasting and writing about wine there have been a couple of constants that have always delighted me.

One is Hunter Valley semillon and the other is Coonawarra cabernet sauvignon.

I will have more to say about Hunter Semillon in another column but this one is about Coonawarra cabernet. It was prompted by the latest Wynnsday releases from Wynns Coonawarra Estate.

This single winery has provided me more fascination and enjoyment than perhaps any other in all that time, whether it is the John Riddoch, Black Label or some of the single vineyard releases over the years.

Indeed, Black Label cabernet probably has been the most consistent red wine released in Australia over the past six decades. First produced from the 1954 vintage, it deservedly has won a reputation as a consistently good to great wine, even in what might not be seen as top years.

It’s those “off” years, when John Riddoch might not be released as the quality is not seen as good enough for its very high standards, that Black Label frequently shines as that still high-quality fruit can end up in the Black Label cabernet.

Now, I know some people will be saying “what about Grange” but there have  been some years where, frankly, I think Grange should not have been released as I don’t believe the wine measured up to the line’s lofty standards.

I’ve never been disappointed by any vintage of Black Label and there are plenty that have given me great enjoyment. As a massive generalisation, the even years seem to have performed better than odd years in Coonawarra and I think 2018 is going to go down as one of the greats. With its dark cherry and floral nose, red and dark berries with mint and a fine tannin framework it’s a wine to put away for a decade or two.

Sarah Pidgeon and Sue Hodder

Senior winemaker Sue Hodder and her team, which includes winemaker Sarah Pidgeon and viticulturist Cath Kidman, have been doing an amazing job producing top drops year after year.

Just to make a mockery of my own generalisation, two of the greatest wines I’ve tasted were the 1991 Black Label and John Riddoch. Coming after the acclaimed, fruit-driven, 1990 vintage they were frequently overlooked, although knowledgeable Coonawarra followers often said they were from a classic regional vintage and would repay cellaring. They were right … I drank them when they were 25 years old and they were still going strong.

I’m really looking forward the the Wynnsday when the 2018 John Riddoch cabernet and Michael shiraz are released.

Cath Kidman

Don’t overlook the other four wines from the 2020 Wynnsday collection as they are equally fascinating and rewarding. The 2018 Black Label Old Vine Shiraz ($45, same price as the Black Label cabernet), ever-elegant V&A Lane Cabernet Shiraz ($60) and V&A Lane Shiraz (same price) and single-vineyard Harold Cabernet Sauvignon ($80) are equally impressive. Incidentally, the first ever single vineyard red released by Wynns was the 2001 Harold cabernet and it was again selected in 2013.

And I have to give a quick mention to the many other Coonawarra producers who should be included in the list of wines that have contributed to my pleasure over the years - in no particular order, Orlando St Hugo, Balnaves, Bowen Estate, Zema, Redmans, Lindemans, Majella, Mildara, DiGiorgio, Brands, Katnook, Hollick, Penley Estate  … the list goes on.